WATERBERG PLATEAU PARK
Historically important during the war between the German forces and the Hereros, the plateau was first envisaged as a reserve for eland, Africa’s largest species of antelope. In 1972 it was proclaimed a reserve and has since become a sanctuary for several rare animals, including eland and (introduced) white rhino. Now it is becoming renowned for its long guided walking safari.

Geography

The park centres on a plateau of compacted Etjo sandstone, some 250m high. This lump of rock, formed about 180–200 million years ago, is the remnant of a much larger plateau that once covered the whole area. It is highly permeable (surface water flows through it like a sieve), but the mudstones below it are impermeable. This results in the emergence of several springs at the base of the southern cliffs.

Flora and fauna

For a fairly small park, there are a large number of different environments. The top of the plateau supports a patchwork of wooded areas (mostly broad-leafed deciduous) and open grasslands, while the foothills and flats at the base of the escarpment are dominated by acacia bush, but dotted with evergreen trees and lush undergrowth where the springs well up on the southern side. This diversity gives the park its ability to support a large variety of animals.

Recently, Waterberg has become an integral part of a number of conservation projects, seeing the relocation of several endangered species (including white rhino, roan and sable antelope) in an attempt to start viable breeding herds. These have added to the game already found here, which ranges from giraffe and kudu to leopard, brown hyena, cheetah, and (reports claim) wild dogs.

The birdlife is no less impressive, with more than 200 species on record. Most memorable are the spectacular black eagles, and Namibia’s only breeding colony of Cape vultures. Numbers of these imposing raptors have sharply declined in recent years due to both the changing environment, and the increasing use of farm poisons (both intentional poisons, and the chemicals in fertilisers and pesticides). One innovation encourages them to eat at a vulture restaurant (open once a week, on Wednesday morning) where carcasses are prepared and left out for them.

Getting there

Waterberg is very clearly signposted, 91km to the east of Otjiwarongo: follow the B1, the C22 and finally the D2512.

The park was made for animals, not visitors, and the Bernabé de la Bat rest camp has only been operating since June ’89. Its accommodation and amenities are beautifully landscaped over the escarpment’s wooded slopes, and include a restaurant, kiosk, large swimming pool and a range of accommodation.
 

This park is unusual in that you can’t drive yourself around. Instead you must either hike, or take one of the park’s organised drives with one of their driver/guides.

Keen walkers will book in advance one of the excellent wilderness trails (see Hiking below). But if you haven’t done this, then there are some excellent marked trails around the camp area, and even up on to a lookout point on the plateau. These are perfect if you are bored sitting in a vehicle and yearn to stretch your legs.

The park’s own organised drives take about three hours; one runs in the morning, and one in the late afternoon. They cost N$50 per person, and are best booked with the park office as soon as you get there. They tour around the plateau in search of game, visiting the permanent water-holes and some of the hides, but are generally disappointing for two reasons. Firstly, the bush is thicker and the game densities appear much lower than, say, Etosha. So although there are good chances to see uncommon sable and roan antelope, many visitors find the game disappointing. Secondly, the driver/guides are often very uncommunicative about the wildlife (although if you quiz them, they are knowledgeable). Thus you end up being driven through lots of apparently empty bush, with no illuminating commentary to hold your attention.

One possibility for the dedicated is to take the morning trip on to the plateau, get off at one of the hides, and spend the day there game-watching. You need to take some food and water (and perhaps a good book), but can then return to camp with the afternoon drive.

Hiking

This is the way to get the best out of Waterberg. All year round there are nine short trails that you can take around the vicinity of the camp, described in booklets from the office. These are designed to give visitors a flavour of the park, and the panorama from the end of the trail up to Mountain View is definitely worth the effort that it takes to get there. If you come to Waterberg for the walking, then you won’t be disappointed.

During the dry season, from April to November, there are also two hikes organised: an accompanied one in the west of the park, and an unguided alternative in the south. There are no better ways to experience this game park, though reservations must be made months in advance.

You need to bring your own sleeping bag, food and cooking utensils. During both walks you will sleep in stone shelters, provided with simple long-drop toilets and water.

Accompanied trail – Waterberg Wilderness Trail

The three-day accompanied hiking trail begins on the second, third, and fourth weekends from April to November. It starts at 14.00 on the Thursday and continues until Sunday afternoon, taking one group of between six and eight people, for N$200 each.

This starts at Onjoka, the wildlife administration centre, from where the group is driven up on to the plateau. There is no set trail to follow; the warden leading the trail will just guide you across the plateau and go wherever looks interesting. The distance covered will depend on the fitness and particular interests of the group, but 10–15km per day would be typical. This is not an endurance test, but an excellent way to get to know more about the environment with the help of an expert guide.

Unguided trail

The four-day unguided trail runs during the same period, starting every Wednesday. Only one group of from three to ten people is allowed on the trail every week, and it costs N$90 per person.

After a short walk from the restcamp to Mountain View, on the top of the escarpment, the trail begins. From here it is a relatively short 42km. The first night is spent at the Otjozongombe shelter, and the second and third nights at the Otjomapenda shelter, allowing you to make a circular day-walk of about 8km. This all takes place around the spectacular sandstone kopjies on the southern edge of the plateau.